A Superb Art Nouveau Enamel Ring

This very stylish Art Nouveau antique ring was made in Moscow between 1908 and 1917.

The ring is handcrafted in green gold and centered with an Old European cut fancy diamond of champagne color (approximately 0.85 ct) between two exotic plique-à-jour enamel leaves.

The upper leaf is surmounted with a pearl. The shank is modeled as a stylized tree branch.

Russian Art Nouveau era plique-à-jour enamel jewelry is exceptionally rare.

The ring is in perfect condition.

Height 24 mm (15/16 in.)

US ring size 8 (18 mm)

A very challenging technically, plique-à-jour (translates from French as “letting in daylight”) enamel is a semi-translucent enamel which is applied in cells,

similar to cloisonne, but with no backing, so light can shine through the enamel. The effect is similar to stained glass.

In Tsarist Russia, some small silver and plique-à-jour enamel objects, like decorative cups and bowls, were produced in small numbers in the late 19th – early 20th centuries by high-end jewelers.

For wearable jewelry, plique-à-jour enamel was rarely used by Russian jewelers, and any pieces with this type of enamel are extremely rare today, especially rings.

The ring is marked with 56 zolotnik old Russian gold standard (14K) / Moscow assay office and maker’s initials ‘ CM’ for Semeon Mukhotin, owner of a goldsmith workshop in Moscow.